Joshua Tree Arch By Wayne Pinkston Via Flickr: Does Anyone Know The Name Of This "Arch"? This Was Taken

Emerging into the Light by Wayne Pinkston Via Flickr: Website Instagram Facebook Surprises are always nice.This was taken in Monument Valley, just outside the park. My guide was Quanah Parker from Majestic Monument Valley tours. He had taken me to a small but excellent Ancient Puebloan-Anasazi Ruins near the valley located in a small canyon. As we crawled out (literally) of the alcove into the small canyon this was our view. The Milky Way lined up perfectly along the roof of the canyon. Beautiful and unplanned. Shot with a 12 mm Rokinon fisheye lens looking up. f 2.8, 30 sec. ISO 10,000. It has been difficult to find guides to go into Monument Valley at night. Now there is a guide and night photographer that is interested in taking photographers into the park to do night photography. If you are interested contact Majestic Monument Valley tours at 435-727-3432 and ask for Quanah Parker. Wonderful way to see the backcountry of MV. Highly recommended. For more images like this please take a look at Wayne Pinkston Photography . Thanks for all the kind support! Hope you enjoy! A big thank you to the wonderful Flickr family. It's a pleasure to post here. Cheers, Wayne

Grandstand at the La Playa Racetrack by Wayne Pinkston Via Flickr: Website Instagram Facebook This is "The Grandstand" in the Racetrack Playa in Death Valley. The Playa is a dry lake bed in Death Valley National Park. It lies in a relatively remote area, about a 4 hour drive from Furnace Creek, mostly down a rutted and sometimes rocky dirt road. This is not a road to hurry alone. There are many tales of flat or ruptured tires, and this is not a place to get stuck. The dry lake bed is sonic and unusual. It is best known for the "Sailing Stones" or "Walking Rocks". The Grandstand lies in the NW area of the Playa, and the Sailing Stones are better see more to the South. The Grandstand is a large rock formation arising from the dry lake bed. The photographer in the right foreground of the photo is Eric Gail. He masterminded the trip to the playa. Thank you Eric! You can see his excellent gallery here: www.flickr.com/photos/dot21studios Hey Eric, I'm going to need another model release! Maybe you can send me the name of your agent! Thanks for taking the time to look. Hope you enjoy! Big thanks to the wonderful Flickr family for all the support and encouragement! Cheers, Wayne

Spiderweb Arch, Hunts Mesa by Wayne Pinkston Via Flickr: Website Instagram Facebook This is Spiderweb Arch on Hunt's Mesa, Monument Valley Navajo Tribal Park, Utah and Arizona. this is a relatively little know arch to the general public. predominantly because it is so hard to get to. The drive to Hunt's Mesa is an adventure in itself, with deep sand and rocky poorly defined tracks. In many areas the term "roads" would be an exaggeration. You also need a local guide. This double arch is huge. It makes Double Arch in Arches National Park look modest in comparison. For scale please look at the small bright light in the right lower area of the photo. You might need to enlarge the photo, but there is a photographer there, Eric Gail, sitting by his tripod on a small ledge taking photos. He is virtually lost within the enormity of the cavernous space. There is some distortion from trying to capture the inside of a sphere onto a rectangular photo. The two opening at the top are overhead. The roof opening on the right is considerably larger than the one on the left, but I am closer to the one on the left making it look as large. I had to move far left in the arch to include the Milky Way. Iy took longer than expected to figure out just how to include the whole arch within a photo. It would not fit on a 14 mm panorama vertically or horizontally. I finally captured it as a horizontal 12 mm fisheye panorama. Many thanks to our guide Quanah Parker from Majestic Monument Valley Tours. He is a night photographer himself, and I probably would not have been able to climb the steep 45 degree walls without his help. When we arrived in the dark, it was like "you want me to do what?, lol. He got me up into the arch however, and then it was just a matter of trying to prevent your camera, tripod, and camera bag from sliding down the slope. If you want to see places like this at night, Google " Majestic Monument Valley Tours, and ask for Quanah Parker. For more images like this please take a look at Wayne Pinkston Photography . Thanks for all the kind support! Hope you enjoy! A big thank you to the wonderful Flickr family. It's a pleasure to post here. Cheers, Wayne

The Arch With No Name by Wayne Pinkston Via Flickr: Website Instagram Facebook Small unnamed arch in Nevada, USA. Nikon 810A, Nikon 14-24 mm lens, f 2.8, 15 sec., 24 mm, ISO 10,000. Lighting with Low Level Lighting (LLL). For more about this technique please see www.lowlevellighting.org For more images like this please take a look at Wayne Pinkston Photography . Thanks for all the kind support! Hope you enjoy! A big thank you to the wonderful Flickr family. It's a pleasure to post here. Cheers, Wayne

Questions and Answers

About Panoramas

Question: Do you use a panorama head for your pano shots, or single frame ultra-wide angle?

Answer: When I call it a panorama I have taken multiple images and stitched them together, usually vertical images. 

I use an Acratech Ballhead that I like a lot. I also use an Acratech Leveling Head which I love. The leveling head makes panoramas much, much easier to get all the images in a horizontal plane. There are lots of leveling heads out there, and this is the one piece of equipment that I would strongly suggest. As long as it works the brand does not matter. At first I only used it for panos, but then I started using it for every night photo and life got a lot easier. Once you level the camera and take that first long exposure photo, it is so much easier to recompose the shot. If the camera is level then you can just swivel it from side to side, or up/down (a little trickier) and the camera remains level. I can usually get the composition right in 2 shots rather than taking multiple shots. Sometimes it takes more, but it is a lot faster to get the composition right with the leveling head. Also you can switch from Hor to vert and not have to change much. I also use an Acratech “L” Bracket almost always when mounting the camera vertically and it helps a lot with panos. It’s much better to help preventing parallax. 

I just wing it on overlap, and overlap a lot. I also use a Acratech Nodal Rail to position the focal plane over the point of rotation. This prevents parallax and the computer can reconstruct it better. In reality though, I only use the nodal rail when there is something  in the foreground that is close, and parallax might be an issue. If everything is far away then I just use the L bracket and it all works out just fine. 

I am learning double row panos, and using special software for that like PTGui pano software. If you want double rows think about this software. For the really high MWs I use the widest lens I have and do them vertically. I have had decent luck with my 15 mm Sigma fisheye lens vertically. I do some lens correction on each image in Lightroom or Adobe RAW and then stitch them together and it works out OK. Just do lots of overlap.

Cheers, Wayne

The Pillars of the Sky by Wayne Pinkston Via Flickr: Website, Instagram, Facebook The Pillars of the Sky: looking up in a borrow canyon in Utah. Low Level Lighting (LLL) used with 2 Cineroid LED light panels turned to low and used at a relatively neutral to slightly warm color temp of 4200K. The rock here is so “red” (actually orange) that if you use a light that is too warm the rock can actually look red and very bizarre. ________________________________________________ This brings up an interesting topic, how the color temperature of your light combines with the color temperature settings in your camera (white balance). I shoot at a relatively neutral camera color temperature (white balance) of 4000-4200K, so a external light temp of 4000K might be neutral to slightly warm in color, and a light temperature of 3000K extremely warm (yellow). If you shoot at a camera color temperature (white balance) of 3200-3800K (very blue sky) then you might need warm light temperatures of 2700-3200k to make your scene look adequately warm (if you want a warm foreground). A light temperature of 2700K is often too warm for me shooting at a camera white balance of 4200K. Have I confused everyone, lol?

Beyond Perception by Wayne Pinkston Via Flickr: This is a panorama from Joshua Tree National Park taken last spring. There is some light pollution on the horizon that adds some color. I did a series of photos from Joshua Tree that kind of got pushed aside by more recent photos. This panorama is a combination of 11 vertical images taken with a Canon 1Dx camera, Nikon 14-24 mm lens, at 14 mm, f 2.8, 25 sec, and ISO 6400. Thanks for taking the time to look. Hope you enjoy! Big thanks to the wonderful Flickr family out there. Please join me at: Website Facebook Instagram Blog

Solitude in the Bisti Badlands by Wayne Pinkston Via Flickr: This is a small a wash or small valley,ravine in the Bisti Badlands of New Mexico, located in the NW section of N.M. near Farmington. I took this in a attempt to give a representation of what most of the landscape looks like. There are numerous small valley-like washes like this, intermixed with flat areas with numerous small to medium sized Hoodoos. Many of those ridges are steep enough to be tricky to climb over, and so you go around and around to get by them. It is impossible to walk in a straight line. There are no paths and so it is easy to get lost. A GPS device is a must! It beautiful and erie scenery though, and well worth a visit. This was taken with a Canon 6D, and a Nikon 14`24 mm lens at 14 mm, f 2.8, 30 seconds, and ISO 6400. This is a single exposure. Thanks for taking the time to look. Hope you enjoy! Your time, faves, and comments are much appreciated! Please join me at: Website Facebook Instagram Blog

Questions and Answers

About lighting: Which lights and Equipment to take with you

Question: 

From the picture you posted recently, you already went to Bisti Badlands area.  My friends and I are going to go there in May and we start to prepare lights for night photography. From the links you sent to me while ago, we can see what lights you used for your night shooting. However, we tried it recently when we went to Death Valley and we were not sure how many lights we need and how to setup the lights. Would you mind to share your experience with us? Do you use stands, how tall do you normally use? I bought total four CI-160 lights with two tall stands and two low stands. Since we have a weight limit when we do backpacking, I'd like to know whether I need to bring all the stands or four is not enough.

Answer:  

Abouts lights of night photos - Remember, you are exposing for starlight, and you do not need much light. You only need to match the intensity of starlight. I have used the Chromo CI 160, the Neewer CN 160, and the F&V Z96, among others. I have these and use them, BUT most of the time they too bright even on the lowest setting, especially if you are close to the area of interest. So, to make them dimmer, I cover them or drape them with a white handkerchief or white napkin, cloth or paper. Both work, I use white cloth. Many times I fold it in two or double it up to dampen down the light even more. I always use the warming filter. I have found that there is some blue light leak around the edges of the filter. This looks bad if you have the light in an arch for example. You can get a combination of blue and yellow light. To fix this I tape around the edges with black gaffers tape. $4 on Amazon.

www.amazon.com/Adorama-Gaffer-Tape-Yards-Black/dp/B00370WU2G?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00

I have found that smaller lights are very useful. I now carry two F&V Z 96 and two smaller lights that have 36 LEDs. They are smaller and lighter and very good. They are dimmable and come with a warming filter. $19.50 on Amazon:

www.amazon.com/Neewer-CN-LUX360-Dimmable-Camera-Camcorder/dp/B0098G9LHU?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00

I tape the edges on this also. If you want to convert any blue LED to a warmer temperature light color you can make your own warming filter. I use Roscoe theatrical gel. It comes in various colors and you can mix and match to get the color you want. It comes in sheets of 20 X 24 inches, and costs about $6-8 on Amazon or B&H. Just cut out a piece and cove your light with it. Here are some that I use:

www.amazon.com/Rosco-Roscolux-Effects-Lighting-Filter/dp/B000N7Y9ZW?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00

www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/163130-REG/Rosco_102302042124_E_Colour_204_Full_CT.html

www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/163132-REG/Rosco_102302052124_E_Colour_205_1_2_CT.html

For small areas I use use reflected light from a halogen xenon hand held spotlight. I reflect it off of sometime off to the side at 45-60 degrees. Halogen lights have a nice warm color. Reflecting the light diffuses the light, and if you can make the light come from the side, then you will create shadows and depth and a more 3D effect. If you shine the light on the foreground from the camera position the scene will look flat and less interesting. Get all of your lights off to the side somehow. This can be difficult in rough terrain, but at least try, This is the Li-ion halogen light I use. $24 on Amazon:

www.amazon.com/Performance-Tool-W2435-Li-Ion-Light/dp/B00EDE7X7W?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00

It is rechargeable. On continuous use it only lasts about 12 minutes, but I only use it for about 6-8 seconds a photo, so it lasts for many photos. It usually lasts the whole night. Occasionally it runs out. Use a snoot on the light. This prevents side scatter and makes the light more controllable. A snoot is a dark tube around the barrel and source of the light. Examples:

www.google.com/search?q=snoot&client=safari&rls=en&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwj-8cOJk6DMAhWDWz4KHQzZDsQQ_AUIBygB&biw=1498&bih=1231

Just make your own. I have used empty cereal boxes, rolled up plastic dinner place mats, etc. It is better if the snoot is black or a neutral color. Some people like a more neutral light. 

If you want a neutral light you can use the Hi CR LED lights. It has a much more neutral light than a typical blue light LED. I use this one:

www.amazon.com/EagleTac-D25LC2-Clicky-Nichia-Flashlight/dp/B00IK9HID0?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00

It is about $62 on Amazon. It is rechargeable, lasts a long the, and is incredibly bright. Also use a snoot. Other examples:

www.amazon.com/Bundle-Nitecore-Flashlight-Searchlight-EASTSHINE/dp/B017KHTJ98?ie=UTF8&keywords=LED%20hi%20CR%20LED&qid=1461256808&ref_=sr_1_2&sr=8-2

www.amazon.com/Tactical-Flashlight-EdisonBright-Lithium-Batteries/dp/B00AIBFZME?ie=UTF8&keywords=LED%20hi%20CR%20LED&qid=1461256808&ref_=sr_1_8&sr=8-8

These are also called CREE LEDs. 

www.amazon.com/Mikafen-Flashlight-Torch-Adjustable-Zoomable/dp/B0183JMQ9C/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1461257049&sr=8-8&keywords=CREE+LED

www.amazon.com/Rechargeable-Brightest-Flashlight-External-Waterproof/dp/B0166NXRCM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1461257049&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=CREE+LED&psc=1

If I do not have to hike very far I use a 10 foot or 3 meter tripod stand for lighting. It is very light and it gets the lights well off the ground and creates less shadows from rocks and bushes on the ground. $57 USD on amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004Q7B0WA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I also use very small and lightweight tripods for lights. I carry 2. I use small cheap tripods for the lights. Here are some I use:

Cheap, light 50 inch tripod from Amazon,  $16 on Amazon:

www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-50-Inch-Lightweight-Tripod-Bag/dp/B00XI87KV8?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01

Here is a 42" tripod that works better in my opinion. It is a little more sturdy, and still pretty light and compact. $20 on Amazon:

www.amazon.com/Polaroid-Carrying-Digital-Cameras-Camcorders/dp/B004W4BAUO?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00

These are very light, and can blow over in the wind. I have never lost a light to breakage though, but maybe I have been lucky. They do blow over, but that is the result of them being lightweight.

These are 42 to 50 inches high. The higher the better. You need to get the lights off the ground or they will create many ground shadows. I try to find a big rock to place the tripod on if possible. I also try to avoid any large rocks that may cast shadows on the area of interest.

I usually carry 2 F&V Z96 lights, 2 of the smaller 36 LED lights, the high CR LED, my Halogen hand held spotlight, and a couple of headlights. I carry my camera tripod and head, with a leveling head. I carry 2 small tripods for the lights. I carry a remote shutter release device. Extra batteries for the headlights. I have never had the LED light panels run out down the batteries in one night. If I know I am going to photograph something big, then I take the larger 160 LED light panel. I carry a number of white handkerchiefs to cover the front of the lights if necessary. (Sometimes I double up or triple up the handkerchiefs).

I also carry a small canister of Mace or Pepper Spray, and a gas powered Boat Horn. These look like a spray can with a cone on top. It is a gas powered horn that is incredible loud, and I hope it will scare off any wildlife that might be dangerous. Examples on Amazon, $5-20 :

www.amazon.com/Falcon-Safety-Super-Sound-Horn/dp/B0000AXTVF/ref=sr_1_cc_2?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1461261495&sr=1-2-catcorr&keywords=boat+horn

www.amazon.com/Shoreline-Marine-Horn-Mini-Ounce/dp/B004UOVAO2/ref=sr_1_cc_9?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1461261495&sr=1-9-catcorr&keywords=boat+horn

I wear tall boots, 8" above the ankle, and watch for snakes.

I use either Canon or Nikon. I carry 3 lens. 1) Nikon 14-24 mm f/2.8 2) Rokinon (same as Samyang or Bower) 24 mm f/1.4 3) Fisheye lens Sigma 15 mm f/2.8 or Rokinon 12 mm f/2.8

That is what I carry. It's a lot but it is manageable.

Cheers,Wayne

2016

From a Watery Origin by Wayne Pinkston Via Flickr: Website, Instagram, Facebook Tufas arising from their watery origins. These tufas are composed of calcium carbonate which precipitates out of the water from springs lying along the lake bed over millennia. Some are seen arising from the lake while others are now exposed on land after the shoreline has receded. Stacked image for the sky, long exposure for the foreground (3 minutes at ISO 1600).