No Puedo Entrar A Tumblr En La Web, Me Come El Payaso

Women of the Socialist Oneida Community wearing bloomers. United States c.1870

Why Construction Matters; or, Not Looking Like a Piece of Your Skirt Was Shot Out of Your Own Ass

Clothes are made up of pieces and all of those pieces have names.  One of those pieces is a triangle, and one of those names is “godet.”  This refers, specifically, to a triangle of fabric inserted between two other pieces to provide flare.

That big triangle smack in the middle of the skirt.  That right there is a godet, providing the flare necessary for locomotion in this 1930s bias-cut dress.  At some point, I promise, I will deliver my sermon on the bias and why it is the Best Thing Ever, but that day is not today, because today we are talking about godets.  (Although let’s take a moment to admire the fastening on this dress, because that’s a classy bit of work.)

The point of the godet, as previously stated, is to provide flare, and so they show up a lot in skirts.  Correctly inserted, particularly in a bias-cut dress, they are fully capable of creating a skirt that drapes sensuously in repose, swirls seductively in motion, and is in all situations slinky as hell.

Keira Knightley in a bias-cut dress for the late ‘30s portion of Atonement, demonstrating drape, swirl, and slink.  The godet at the back of the dress is clearly visible in the last two pictures; the way the sash embellishment hangs obscures its compatriot in the front in the other two, but by the way the fabric is moving around her legs, it’s there.  

This is a godet fitted well, moving subtly with the rest of the skirt in such a way most people won’t notice its existence until a dork points it out.  Knightley also looks to be wearing ‘30s-correct (ish, at least) shapewear, including either a sort of long corselet or girdle to the upper thigh, so while the skirt clings to her legs at the front when she walks, it’s not highlighting any butt cleavage when she stands.  Basically how a modern sportsbra gives the monobosom effect, only on the butt.

Like this, okay?  Which one always put on AFTER the heels, obviously, for just this effect.  I mean, I’m not going to lie, if I had ‘30s shapewear, I’d totally wear just that with my repro heels from time to time, and if I have to explain why, you need a kind of help I can’t give you.  (In all honesty, once the corselet is attached to the stockings as she’s doing in the picture, getting in position to fasten the shoes may be a bit tricky.  This does not mean anyone who decides to parade about in vintage shapewear and heels shouldn’t cite this image as entirely historical justification for doing so.)

BUT GODETS, you insist, enough with this shapewear suspense intermission, we’re here for the godets, those fascinating triangles!

Back to godets, where they go is something that depends not only on the design of the dress, but also the specific curvature of the wearer.  With the curvature reduction provided by the corselet, the point of Knightley’s godet can come where it does without looking weird (example of “weird” to follow).  She has a flat ass, so it’s cool, is what I’m saying.  If the wearer has curvature (”booty,” in the vernacular), however, the placement of the godet gets trickier–it either needs to be higher than the greatest point of curvature (where the ass sticks out the most), in which case the fabric of the godet will start to spread out immediately rather than only when in motion, or significantly below, in which case the dress will hug the booty, then suddenly flare out.

Putting a godet up that high defeats the point, literally–you may as well use a gore, which is like a godet that’s had the pointy top bit cut off.

Gored skirt dress patterns–on the right, you can see that there are four pieces to the skirt, which are essentially triangles with the point tops cut off.  While the drape and graceful flow will still be achieved, because the bias is the coolest thing ever, some of the slink seen in godet skirts is lost.  Both Pinterest and a google image search for gored vs. godet skirts can you provide you with more examples of the loss of slinkage.  This continues regardless of era, I chose this example from the ‘30s less because of its time period and more because, as was common in the ‘30s, these are also cut on the bias.  And while the bias preserves some slinkage, it’s really a godet that gives the most.

So that’s what happens if you stick a godet up high in the skirt’s construction.  If your godet hangs low…

…as in this ‘30s-inspired example by Atelier Versace which may very well be the only thing I’ve ever liked, let alone loved, by them, where the godet’s point can be seen nearly a foot down the center seam from the base of the cape.  Which is also significantly below any butt curvature.  (Look, as weird as I feel talking about staring at celebrities’ butts, when you start looking at garment construction the body ceases to be anything but a shape that has to be fitted, so you don’t really see butts anymore, just curvature that determines where a godet should go.  This carries over to fitting garments on people, when grabbing their butts should be really awkward, but it’s more just “why is this fitting mannequin making squeaking noises, oh, it’s a person, whoops.”  I still feel weird talking about it.)  The result of this extremely low-slung godet being that the upper part of the skirt fits very snugly (again, it’s cut on the bias, and I swear a bias-cut skirt can make a flat-assed girl look bootylicious), with the skirt flaring around her legs.  Because the godet is really long and narrow, we get this great train effect, as well.  Damn, Versace.  When you get it together, by which I mean go seriously vintage, you do nice work.

And then there is the middle option.  The godet directly on the greatest point of curvature, or just below it.  And that is when you get this.

That is a disaster of a godet.  I really like the concept that the embellishment on the back gradually tapers to a point that meets the point of the godet, which then flares out the skirt.  That is a lovely concept.  This is not a lovely result.  Because of where the godet’s point lies on this particular woman’s curvature, it basically looks like she’s shooting a triangle of fabric out of her own asshole, and that is just weird on top of aesthetically displeasing.  This would be a problem even with a filmier fabric and a narrower angle, but this one is so wide that the godet flares out very suddenly, before the rest of the skirt even has a chance to catch up with it–hence the very visible Triangle of Fabric here, vs. the more subtle flow of the Atonement skirt, where the pieces all move together.  The effect is of a rather nice pencil dress that planned on hugging the wearer’s figure nearly to the knee, whose plans were foiled by a godet suddenly shot out of her ass.  

In conclusion, the bias is awesome, godets are awesome, ‘30s and ‘30s-inspired dresses using godets well are awesome, but the wrong godet on the wrong part of the ass and all is lost.  And talking about actresses’ butts on the internet is weird.

Sample designs from Heinrich Dolmetsch‘s “Historic Styles of Ornament”

1. Egyptian

2. Assyrian

3. Greek

4. Pompeiian

5. Japan

6. Chinese

7. Indian

8. Persian

9. Arabian

10. Moresque

Generative AI Policy (February 9, 2024)

As of February 9, 2024, we are updating our Terms of Service to prohibit the following content:

Images created through the use of generative AI programs such as Stable Diffusion, Midjourney, and Dall-E.

This post explains what that means for you. We know it’s impossible to remove all images created by Generative AI on Pillowfort. The goal of this new policy, however, is to send a clear message that we are against the normalization of commercializing and distributing images created by Generative AI. Pillowfort stands in full support of all creatives who make Pillowfort their home. Disclaimer: The following policy was shaped in collaboration with Pillowfort Staff and international university researchers. We are aware that Artificial Intelligence is a rapidly evolving environment. This policy may require revisions in the future to adapt to the changing landscape of Generative AI. 

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Why is Generative AI Banned on Pillowfort?

Our Terms of Service already prohibits copyright violations, which includes reposting other people’s artwork to Pillowfort without the artist’s permission; and because of how Generative AI draws on a database of images and text that were taken without consent from artists or writers, all Generative AI content can be considered in violation of this rule. We also had an overwhelming response from our user base urging us to take action on prohibiting Generative AI on our platform.  

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How does Pillowfort define Generative AI?

As of February 9, 2024 we define Generative AI as online tools for producing material based on large data collection that is often gathered without consent or notification from the original creators.

Generative AI tools do not require skill on behalf of the user and effectively replace them in the creative process (ie - little direction or decision making taken directly from the user). Tools that assist creativity don't replace the user. This means the user can still improve their skills and refine over time. 

For example: If you ask a Generative AI tool to add a lighthouse to an image, the image of a lighthouse appears in a completed state. Whereas if you used an assistive drawing tool to add a lighthouse to an image, the user decides the tools used to contribute to the creation process and how to apply them. 

Examples of Tools Not Allowed on Pillowfort: Adobe Firefly* Dall-E GPT-4 Jasper Chat Lensa Midjourney Stable Diffusion Synthesia

Example of Tools Still Allowed on Pillowfort: 

AI Assistant Tools (ie: Google Translate, Grammarly) VTuber Tools (ie: Live3D, Restream, VRChat) Digital Audio Editors (ie: Audacity, Garage Band) Poser & Reference Tools (ie: Poser, Blender) Graphic & Image Editors (ie: Canva, Adobe Photoshop*, Procreate, Medibang, automatic filters from phone cameras)

*While Adobe software such as Adobe Photoshop is not considered Generative AI, Adobe Firefly is fully integrated in various Adobe software and falls under our definition of Generative AI. The use of Adobe Photoshop is allowed on Pillowfort. The creation of an image in Adobe Photoshop using Adobe Firefly would be prohibited on Pillowfort. 

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Can I use ethical generators? 

Due to the evolving nature of Generative AI, ethical generators are not an exception.

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Can I still talk about AI? 

Yes! Posts, Comments, and User Communities discussing AI are still allowed on Pillowfort.

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Can I link to or embed websites, articles, or social media posts containing Generative AI? 

Yes. We do ask that you properly tag your post as “AI” and “Artificial Intelligence.”

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Can I advertise the sale of digital or virtual goods containing Generative AI?

No. Offsite Advertising of the sale of goods (digital and physical) containing Generative AI on Pillowfort is prohibited.

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How can I tell if a software I use contains Generative AI?

A general rule of thumb as a first step is you can try testing the software by turning off internet access and seeing if the tool still works. If the software says it needs to be online there’s a chance it’s using Generative AI and needs to be explored further. 

You are also always welcome to contact us at moderation@pillowfort.social if you’re still unsure.

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How will this policy be enforced/detected?

Our Team has decided we are NOT using AI-based automated detection tools due to how often they provide false positives and other issues. We are applying a suite of methods sourced from international universities responding to moderating material potentially sourced from Generative AI instead.

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How do I report content containing Generative AI Material?

If you are concerned about post(s) featuring Generative AI material, please flag the post for our Site Moderation Team to conduct a thorough investigation. As a reminder, Pillowfort’s existing policy regarding callout posts applies here and harassment / brigading / etc will not be tolerated. 

Any questions or clarifications regarding our Generative AI Policy can be sent to moderation@pillowfort.social.

pspsps Chocolate Guy stans

[image description: an Instagram story from Amaury Guichon (the "Chocolate Guy"), which shows a side-by-side comparison of him in 2007 vs him now (2022). the 2007 picture shows him, significantly younger, standing next to and pointing at a small sculpture of an octopus attacking a ship. the 2022 picture shows him now, standing next to and pointing at a massive sculpture of a kraken holding a large anchor. the second sculpture is roughly three to four times the size of the first one, and finished to a much higher degree of quality. end ID]

What the past couple days have felt like

There's literally no braver man in show business than Lindsey Buckingham. The way he repeatedly got on a stage with Stevie Nicks.. for decades... and just let her sing the songs she wrote about him fueled by hatred and cocaine AT HIM.

I know he wrote his own hatred/cocaine songs about her too. I understand that.

But the way in EVERY. FUCKING. PERFORMANCE. Stevie turns to face him in the middle of the song every time to just sing AT HIM like "i fucking hate you so much" and he just has to keep playing in front of all those people like "yes, Stevie, i know"

The Road Goes Ever On embroidered by seejor.

“After 100ish hours of work, I’m so happy to say this beast is done!!

For the most part, I had an idea that I thought would be cool, drew it up, and transferred it to fabric (here’s the hoop pre-stitching). Prior to this piece, I’d only done florals – some from patterns I bought online (Namaste Embroidery) and some of my own design – so really I just wanted to see if I could embroider a dragon. I hadn’t been embroidering long but was feeling ballsy.

So that’s the pattern… as for color choices: the mountain, clouds, fog, and trees were entirely a product of I’d bought a bunch of floss I thought was pretty and kind of went together and figured why not give it a try. I love how the mountain came out. The gold for the text was my favorite gold I’d worked with in a sunflower piece (I have an entire floss organizer of just shades of yellow because of that piece, so the gold pieces pretty much just followed). Smaug’s colors and pose in general were inspired by an illustration of Smaug Tolkien did that I’ve always loved.

Process in general: I kind of made most of it up as I went along. I knew what effect I wanted in various sections and if I couldn’t figure out a way to make it look the way I wanted with stitches I knew, I’d go googling. The pile of gold Smaug is on is all seed stitch (I don’t know if it’s technically seed stitch, but that’s what I’m calling it) and literally caused me to set this piece down for two years.

- the implement I used to transfer the design was a Sakura Gelly Roll white pen. In a pinch, the gel ink can be removed (like when I edited out the two other mountains)

- I wore a reasonably high powered, rechargeable headlamp for a lot of this project in an attempt to have my stitches be as precise as possible. It ain’t pretty, but it worked pretty well!”

I'm fuckin wheezing