1890. La Reforma Integral Del Traje
1890. La reforma integral del traje
La reforma integral del traje en los Estados Unidos (de interés para las damas), por Emilia Pardo Bazán.
En los Estados Unidos la mujer trabaja. Desplegando su actividad en ocupaciones serias y lucrativas, se ve compelida a andar de prisa, a recorrer las casas aunque llueva o haga frío, vestida de una manera cómoda, higiénica y decente. Ya sé que semejante aspiración será calificada de abusiva por aquellos que, a ejemplo del famoso Luis Vives (única semejanza que tendrá con este filósofo), sentencian a la mujer a la pena de emparedamiento, a una vida sedentaria y enervante que la pone anémica y ahilada, a modo de planta cuando vegeta en sitio oscuro, y la llena de histérico, dengues y alifafes. Peor agrádeles o no, así acontece en Norteamérica, y a semejante objeto responde la invención del divided skirt.
Al trabajo y labor del invierno, a las fatigas de la maternidad, a los combates fisiológicos que soporta la mujer en todas las edades de su existencia, opone la medicina contemporánea el campo y su sana atmósfera, las temporadas de aguas y los baños de mar. No surten el efecto deseado estos gratos remedios si no los acompaña el movimiento, la gimnasia de los músculos, el largo paseo, no por carreteras polvorosas, sino al través de valles y montañas.
La mujer, laboratorio de las futuras generaciones, debe fortalecerse y orearse, criar buena sangre, que le permita, llegado el caso, ofrecer a sus hijos leche pura y nutritiva. Su traje actual, el que lleva a visitas, reuniones y paseos, apenas le permite recorrer un kilómetro sin fatigarse o sin dejarse entre zarzas y espinos la mitad de las faldas.
¿Cuál mujer puede andar aprisa, bajar y subir cuestas, arrostrar el polvo y el barro con esos faldellines, adornado de faralaes y pingos, entiesados con aceros, la misma angostura, que ofrecen resistencia al juego de la rodilla, y por consiguiente originan cansancio? ¿Quién no habrá observado el hecho de que el hombre, en general no se fatiga al recorrer distancias mucho mayores que la mujer, mientras esta, por las calles mejor empedradas, se apoya rendida en el brazo del hombre?
¿En qué consiste esta predisposición a la fatiga? No tan solo en la distinta conformación anatómica de los dos sexos, sino en el traje y en la falta de costumbre de caminar.
Siempre que se camine con algún fin útil, el traje actual de la mujer ha de servirla de estorbo. O tiene de remangarse las faldas y sufrir el embarazo de llevarse las cogidas, inutilizando una mano, o ha de ir enredándose los pies en el insidioso pedazo de tela, que ahorrando trabajo a los barrenderos de la villa, acapara el polvo, los residuos y las inmundicias de toda clase que alfombran las calles de una capital. La operación de alzar la ropa a fin de no mancharla, sobre lo que ata y molesta, ofrece el inconveniente de poner en riesgo el pudor y descubrir a veces sobre todo en días de lluvia, lo mismo que se pretende tapar con las faldas. El frío circula libremente a través de ellas; no ciñéndose a la forma natural del cuerpo, no abrigan, y reclaman otras faldas interiores, que además de pesar, son para la marcha nuevas rémoras.
Resuelve satisfactoriamente tantas dificultades el divided skirt; voy a ver si explico claramente su hechura y condiciones.
A la vista –aun a la de los curiosos impertinentes– el divided skirt no es sino una falda, más discreta y menos delatora que las usuales. Dividida de alto abajo en dos perneras (leglettes), puede hacerse de cualquier tela, según la estación –de surá, de paño, de franela, de terciopelo–; y va cubierta con una especie de sobrefalda o delantal, que puede ser más largo o más corto, según el objeto a que se destine el traje, pero que disimula enteramente la abertura de la prenda. Las perneras o bombachos pueden llevarse también debajo de una falda común y corriente, a guisa de saya bajera, prestando mayor comodidad. El complemento interior de este traje es la camisilla o chemilette, mezcla, en una prenda sola, de la camisa y pantalones de seda que acostumbran usar las señoras. Sirve también para la chemilette cualquier tejido: algodón, hilo, franela o surá.
Algunas damas norteamericanas, en vez de la chemilette gastan con el divided skirt, sobre todo en invierno, un traje de punto, idea práctica en sumo grado. Además usan el modelbodice, corsé construido según las reglas más sabias de la higiene, que no puede perjudicar a los órganos de la respiración ni a las vísceras abdominales. Todas estas prendas, las turkish leglettes, la chemilette, el jersey fifting underwear o traje elástico interior, se anuncian en los figurines norteamericanos y alemanes, y supongo, aunque no lo he visto, que en los ingleses, como artículo de consumo corriente en indumentaria. Debo suponer, por lo tanto, que la reforma racional del traje cuenta ya con bastantes partidarias y prosélitas.
En España, que yo sepa, no se han vislumbrado indicios de sentido práctico en el traje, sino con ocasión del sport y de la caza. Creo haber leído en algún periódico que la infanta Isabel en sus excursiones campestres lucía un traje corto con pantalón bombacho y polainas. Acaso alguna beldad madrileña, en análoga coyuntura, imitará el ejemplo de la hermana de Alfonso XII. Pero sería muy de desear que estas novedades útiles no apareciesen como extravagancia chic de damas a quienes su posición escuda para todo, sino que se desamortizasen y llegasen a la burguesía y aun al pueblo, extendiendo así la esfera de su benéfica acción y cooperando al mayor bienestar y felicidad de la especie humana.
Consíguese este bienestar a veces por medios humildes, vulgares y sencillos, por arbitrios semejantes al proverbial del huevo de Colón; no obstante, las innovaciones, que vuelan con vuelo de cóndor por las esfera de las ideas, se arrastran como limazas en la de las costumbres; menos arriesgaría hoy quien negase altas verdades metafísicas que quien en España se determine a salir vistiendo por vez primera las leglettes. En consecuencia, yo, escasa de valor, elegí lo menos peligroso de tarea tan ardua: expóngolo y patentizo como puedo las ventajas del divided skirt, y aguardo a que otra dama adornada con todas las prendas de la belleza, la elegancia y la juventud, se resuelva a aclimatarlo.
EMILIA PARDO BAZÁN
El Guadalete. Periódico político y literario, año XXXVI, número 10.627, 19 de noviembre de 1890.
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